Temple 18: Onzanji

Goshuin

Basic Information

Accommodation

History & Highlights

Onzanji is an ancient temple said to have been founded by Gyōki. According to tradition, Kōbō Daishi lifted the temple’s prohibition against women so that he could welcome his mother, Tamayori Gozen, to worship there. The temple’s name, meaning “Temple of Gratitude,” reflects his deep gratitude toward his mother. After being destroyed during a period of war, Onzanji was rebuilt and remains a temple rich in history and tradition.

Notes

From the Niō Gate, there is a steep uphill walk to the temple grounds.

The route via Tokushima Station passes through the city’s downtown area, where you’ll find a wide selection of restaurants, convenience stores, and hotels. It is the best choice for pilgrims who want easy access to meals, resupply points, and accommodation.

The other option is the Jizōgoe Pilgrimage Trail, a traditional route that still preserves the atmosphere of the old pilgrimage path. The trail reaches an elevation of around 100 meters, offering peaceful scenery and a sense of the historic pilgrimage experience. However, during seasons when fewer pilgrims are on the trail, such as summer, the path may become overgrown with vegetation.

I walked this route on a rainy day in spring, but I was able to pass through without any problems.

I stopped at Hachiman Onsen, located beyond the Jizōgoe Pilgrimage Trail. This day-use hot spring facility offers a restaurant and a relaxing lounge area, making it a great place to soothe tired muscles after a long day of walking.

With the kind permission of the facility, bathhouse visitors were allowed to camp overnight on the premises. This thoughtful hospitality provided a safe and comfortable place for walking pilgrims to rest.

The camping area is located near the boiler equipment, so some people may find the noise and vibrations distracting. If you prefer a quiet place to sleep, this location may not be the best option.

When I stayed there, it was raining, so having a sheltered place to rest was a great help. The kindness and generosity of the local community left a lasting impression on me.

The Tokushima Station Route and the Jizōgoe Pilgrimage Trail Route merge near the Katsuura River, approximately 12 km into the journey.

Further ahead, along the elevated tracks of the JR Mugi Line, there is a pilgrim hut with a spacious rest area that provides shelter from rain and wind. When I stopped there, it was raining, but I was able to take a break and wait out the weather in a comfortable place.