Walking the Shikoku Pilgrimage – Day 2

Hello, I’m Taka.
In this article, I’ll share my experience from Day 2 of the walking Shikoku Pilgrimage.

For many pilgrims, the first day often ends up being only a half-day of walking.
Because of that, Day 2 is usually considered the real start of the journey.

Day 2 is the first major challenge, as the walking distance increases and foot pain starts to appear.
If you plan to walk around 30 km, managing your pace and taking proper care of your feet becomes especially important.

In this guide, I’ve summarized the common issues you may face on Day 2—especially foot pain—and how to deal with them. I hope you find it helpful.

Itinerary

Day 2 Begins : The Pilgrimage Truly Starts Here

April 26th, sunny. Today marks Day 2 of my walking pilgrimage.
Since I only started walking in the afternoon yesterday, today feels like the real beginning.

I had little to no fatigue left from the previous day, and my body felt great.
With the weather on my side, I set off feeling positive and ready to walk a solid distance again.

Heading to the Pilgrimage’s Toughest Stage Tomorrow : Destination: Kamojima Onsen

Tomorrow, I will head toward one of the most challenging sections of the Shikoku pilgrimage — Temple 12, Shosan-ji.

This area is known as “Henro Korogashi”, a term used to describe steep and demanding mountain paths where pilgrims might feel like they could “tumble down.” In other words, it refers to some of the toughest parts of the entire route.
These difficult sections are scattered throughout the pilgrimage.

Since this route involves long and strenuous mountain trails, it’s best to stay as close to Shosan-ji as possible.

With that in mind, I decided to make Kamojima Onsen, located just before Temple 11, my destination for today.

What is Kamojima Onsen? : A Free Stay Option for Pilgrims

Kamojima Onsen is a hot spring facility, but it also has a simple lodging hut on its grounds.

What makes it unique is that you can stay overnight for free if you use the hot spring (500 yen).
For walking pilgrims, this is an incredibly helpful option, and many pilgrims take advantage of it.

It’s also an important stop where you can rest and recover properly before taking on the climb to Shosan-ji the next day.

Leaving the Zenkonyado : Heading to Temple 4, Dainichi-ji

On Day 2, I woke up at 5:30 a.m., got ready quickly, and left the lodging at 6:00.
The woman I shared the room with was still asleep, so I quietly slipped out.

My first destination was Temple 4, Dainichi-ji, located halfway up a mountain at an elevation of about 100 meters.
Climbing uphill with a 10 kg backpack on my back was more physically demanding than I had expected.

However, by making good use of my walking stick, I was able to take my time and fully enjoy the fresh, crisp mountain air of the early morning.

Early Morning at the Temple : A Quiet Moment of Prayer

History of Dainichi-ji

Dainichi-ji is a temple complex facing south, situated along the Kurotani River in the Asan Mountain Range.
It is said to have been founded in 815 by Kūkai (Kobo Daishi), who, after experiencing a vision of Dainichi Nyorai (Mahāvairocana), carved a small statue of the deity measuring about 5.5 cm.

The temple is also locally known as “Kurotani-dera,” and this name is believed to be the origin of the mountain’s name, Kuroiwa-san.

Heading to Temple 5, Jizo-ji : The Most Common Deity in Japan

The Main Deity of Jizo-ji : Who is Jizo Bosatsu?

The principal deity of Jizo-ji is Jizo Bosatsu.

Jizo is considered one of the most commonly found Buddhist figures in Japan.
You can see Jizo statues in many places — along roadsides, in the mountains, and within temple grounds.

Jizo Bosatsu is widely believed to protect children, travelers, and the souls of the deceased.
For this reason, Jizo has been deeply loved and worshipped by people throughout Japan for centuries.

History of Jizo-ji

Jizo-ji is said to have been founded around 821 by Kūkai (Kobo Daishi), under the imperial order of Emperor Saga.
Kūkai himself is believed to have carved a small statue of Shōgun Jizo Bosatsu (approximately 5.5 cm), which was enshrined as the temple’s principal image.

Heading to Temple 6, Anraku-ji : Famous for Its Onsen

It’s about 5 km from Jizo-ji to Temple 6, Anraku-ji.
You retrace part of the route and then continue west along Prefectural Route 12, making it easy to follow without getting lost.

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✅ Reliable Wayfinding on the Pilgrimage Route

The Shikoku pilgrimage trail is well-marked with directional signs and stickers placed along the route.
You’ll find them on utility poles, guardrails, and even in the mountains. By simply following the arrows, it’s easy to stay on track.

Once you get used to it, you can continue the pilgrimage without relying on a smartphone, using only these markers.

On the other hand, if you stop seeing the signs, it’s a good indication that you may have strayed off the route — so be careful.

9:30 a.m. — Arrived at Anraku-ji

No.7 Jūraku-ji – 20 Minutes on Foot from Anraku-ji

History of Jūraku-ji

Jūraku-ji was founded during the Daidō era when Kōbō Daishi, while traveling for missionary work, experienced a vision of Amida Nyorai and enshrined a statue he personally carved as the temple’s principal image.
He named the temple Kōmyōzan Jūraku-ji, wishing that people could attain the “ten lights and joys” beyond the inevitable sufferings of birth, aging, illness, and death.

Heading to Kumagai-ji (Temple 8) – Feeling a Strain in My Legs

Pain in the Soles – An Unexpected Early Challenge

Arriving at Kumatani-ji While Enduring Foot Pain

History of Kumatani-ji

Kumatani-ji is an ancient temple known for having one of the largest Niomon gates among the Shikoku Pilgrimage temples.
Its origins date back to 815 (Kōnin 6), when Kōbō Daishi was training in Ao Valley.
He was instructed by the Kumano Gongen of Kishu to “save sentient beings in the latter age of the world,”
and was granted a 5.5 cm golden statue of Kannon Bosatsu (the Bodhisattva of Compassion).

To Hōrin-ji (9th Temple) : Bustle of Group Visitors

History of Hōrin-ji

In 815 (Kōnin 6), during his pilgrimage, Kōbō Daishi encountered a white snake, considered a messenger of Buddha. Inspired by this, he carved a statue of the Buddha’s Nirvana as the temple’s principal image and established the temple.

Heading to the Day’s Final Temple: No.10 Kirihata-ji

History of Kirihata-ji

Kirihata-ji is located on the mountainside of Mount Kirihata at an elevation of 155 meters.
According to legend, Kōbō Daishi received cloth from a young maiden who was weaving. The maiden had enshrined Kannon for her parents and later entered the Buddhist path, achieving sokushin jōbutsu (attaining Buddhahood in this lifetime).
Kōbō Daishi enshrined her as a manifestation of the Thousand-Armed Kannon, turning her image into the deity.

Because of this, the temple became known as a place where women could attain enlightenment in life, and it has long been popular among female pilgrims.

After Today’s Pilgrimage : Heading to the Lodging

I successfully completed one of today’s goals: visiting Kirihata-ji (No. 10).
The other goal was reaching today’s lodging, Kamojima Onsen.

It’s just past 3:00 PM, and the distance to Kamojima Onsen is about 9 km.
I hope to arrive before sunset.

A 10-Minute Break at a Free Rest Stop Along the Way

After 6 PM, Complete Darkness Settles In

With the pain in my feet, my pace had clearly slowed.

Normally, walking in the dark would be unwise, but right now, I had no choice but to keep going.

I felt a natural sense of urgency, which made my steps faster—but that only increased the strain on my feet.

“Don’t rush.”
I kept telling myself this, taking one steady step at a time.

7:00 PM – Arrival at Kamojima Onsen

Meeting Fellow Pilgrims Along the Way

The lodging was a small hut of about six tatami mats, and a few other pilgrims were already staying there.

There was a man in his seventies, a regular pilgrim who walks the route every year around this time. On days when he’s particularly ambitious, he reportedly walks up to 50 km in a single day.
Hearing him say, “Tomorrow I’ll go past Mount Yaku and reach Dainichi-ji,” I could really sense his incredible determination.

Then there was a young man in his twenties, quite a large figure.
He was around 190 cm tall and probably weighed about 120 kg, and his presence naturally drew attention.

The backpack he carried was massive too, probably around 20 kg.
Even from the heft of his gear, you could tell how seriously he was preparing for tomorrow.

Everyone at the lodging seemed fully prepared for the challenge of Mount Yaku tomorrow.

There really are all kinds of people on the walking pilgrimage.
Each walks in their own style, each with their own purpose.

That diversity is one of the charms of the pilgrimage.

Temple Information

Summary: Tips for Surviving the Second Day of the Walking Pilgrimage

The second day of the walking pilgrimage is often the first real test, as distance, fatigue, and foot pain all hit at once.

• Walking around 30 km is quite tough.
• Foot care is essential.
• Aim to reach your destination before sunset.

But along with the challenges come the rewards:

• The warmth of pilgrim hospitality.
• Quiet, serene temples in the early morning.
• Scenery that can only be appreciated on foot.

Above all, it’s important to go at your own pace and avoid overexertion.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)